It's really good but gets overrated because it went back to a more lighthearted tone after the GRIM DARK SRS BSNS of VII and especially VIII.
I'm never entirely sure how games that involve shit like half naked body builders owning gaudy casinos, crossdressing and seducing a land lord, worldwide card games that everyone seems to know how to play, ridiculous subweapons like megaphones, dogs and swords that also shoot bullets, and characters like a black military man with a gun for an arm, a remote controlled cat riding a giant stuffed moogle, a ninja played entirely for laughs, a martial artist that stuffs his face with hot dogs, a ditz that loves trains and a sniper that can't shoot for shit get tagged as "grim dark srs bsns".
Yet earlier games that involve war, mass murder, death of people 5 minutes after you meet them, a literal brooding dark knight redemption story, continents getting erased off the map, a demon emperor who dies, is sent to hell then comes back to life because he took over hell, the literal embodiment of DARKNESS being summoned to destroy everything, etc somehow don't get the same treatment.
FF has always been stupid. If anything the games have gotten more and more lighthearted with totally out there plots, characters and settings until Matsuno penned FF12 to be the most dour entry possible.
spoiler (click to show/hide)
In the time it took me to write this, FF9 still wouldn't have loaded a random battle.