What I enjoyed about the first half was Vaan's part of the story. Stealing from the treasure trove, getting thrown in prison...
But like I said before, the last third is my favorite part of the game.
The problem isn't the beginning nor the end, it's the middle that's bad. Like, there's one part where you're supposed to go to the Empire capital, Archades, and in order to get there you have to go on foot. Thing is, before you get there you have to travel across at least 5-6 different dungeons and areas before you even step foot in the empire. Thankfully, when you get to Archades, the last third of the story starts and the game never lets up after that: Cid's Research Lab -> Feywood -> Giruvegan -> Pharos are so tight in terms of gameplay, dungeons, story, and pacing. If the whole game were like that it'd be my favorite FF.