I'm up to the Faywood (after Balfonheim port) or whatever its called... And the game still doesn't feel like it's going anywhere, and I think I'm nearing the end. I still have a buncha subquests and hunts that I've neglected doing, though, so that I have a feeling is gonna take me a while.
There's just too much fluff in the game though, I agree. Maps are absolutely massive and lots of the game just feels like running back and forth through dungeon after dungeon after dungeon repeat ad nauseum. I can't remember the last time I even touched my controller during a boss fight, aside from maybe attempting to get a better angle on flying enemies and so I can actually see the damage I do to them (the most challenging part of the game so far!).
Graphics and music are very nice though.